Hi again strangers. Part of this trip is a learning process. It has been almost two weeks since our last log update, partly because of the lack of internet in the remote areas we have been riding through, but in all honesty probably more due to our own laziness. At the end of a long day it has been hard to find the motivation to find an internet source and let you all know what is new, when sleep and food are heavily squeezing the mind. So we have learned to give a quick blog update every couple of days from now on. It might not be in too much detail, a few sentences or so, but it should let you know where we are and any exciting relevant news.
Unfortunately for you, this will not be one of those quick updates. This will be more like a novel, so find a comfortable chair, put on a pot of tea, or whatever your beverage of choice is, and get comfy, because we have a lot of news to share! (This is Lucas writing, but Justin is going to work on some of this post later, so it will be a collaboration of sorts! Justin is writing in Italics, and again, apologies about the timing of this blog)
Well, last time we checked in we were in Thessalon. To me, it seems like both a short time and a long time. Those in the group know that i have a particular fascination with time perception and I am amused that for this trip, recalling a day in the past is a little different than other places in that our sense of time is dictated by distance. Not to jump off too far on a philosophical tangent, but Thessalon for me, didn’t occur on July 18, 2010. Rather it is remembered as the day before Sault St. Marie, and the day after Boom Camp. Numbers for days have little meaning, and though I have trouble articulating it, each day is a place in space, not a place in time. A cool concept to me.
Anyways, back to Thessalon and the adventures we have been on.
On my way out of Thessalon with Kristi and Garrett, I noticed Marcia Maguire (our friend Woody’s mom whom we had planned on staying with) was home. She was happy to see us and tried to feed us food, which we kindly declined. Her front yard has been turned into an informal garden of herbs, edible and medicinal plants scattered and placed as she acquires new species. Compost and scrap organic matter was spread through the garden too. The garden had a natural beauty, probably due to the health and well-being of the plants.
After the rest day in Thessalon we left for Sault St. Marie. It was hot in the morning, but would later develop into showers that night. We had a slight headwind, which was a godsend I believe; we had been fighting the wind for days and days, and it had been sucking the life out of us. Suddenly we were using gears that were normally reserved for going down steep hills. As I was split up from the group I ended up riding on a safer rode separate from the highway that took me through a native reserve and vegetable fields, also stopping to see if others would catch up. I started to read the book War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy, which I received from Tome in Thessalon. It is one of those books that is hard to put down. The ride into the Sault felt longer because it had been such a long day and I was riding alone wondering how the others were faring. It ended up being a long ride that day as I recall, arriving at a place called Velorutions in the late evening. Velorutions was a great bike shop in the Sault, offering free camping and showers to cyclists from out of town. It was like a little cyclist hobo village. Riders from Europe, the States, Quebec, B.C., and the Maritimes all swapping stories, all going different directions and each offering tips and advice, on places to camp, attractions and the right gear. There is definitely a real sense of comradery and community among cyclists. We usually meet at least a few a day (the majority heading west to east, to utilize the great power of the wind, which really makes a huge difference). We have met people all over the world already, and they always seem to be friendly and talkative. Justin, Viera and I, spent the first night in Sault St. Marie at a couch surfers named Emily. We talked into the late hours and sampled some of her homemade wine. We also shared Tortilla vegetable wraps and roasted sweet potatoes. Kristi and Garrett got in late and camped at Velorutions, while our Quebecois tag along Phillipe stayed at a motel to get some much needed work done. The next day we all had a rest day. We all went our separate ways, Phillipe and I went for a great ride, exploring the city on our bikes, in particular the waterfront of the river, which on the other side is the United States. It was a cool feeling to see our neighbours to the south so close. Before heading out of the city, Garrett and I found the camping supply store, called Joes, where we were able to find a multi-fuelled camping stove for times where a fire or indoor stove are hard to come by.
The next day we woke up and tried to get our gear as dry as possible as huge thunder storms had soaked most everything. In the morning however it was sunny, and we made our way happily up the east side of superior, enjoying the beautiful day and the lack of headwind. It was an absolutely spectacular ride; steep hills and around corners flaunting breathtaking views of rocky hills and blue waters colliding. In the afternoon we dropped down to the coastline, following amazing beaches of white sand. The lake is scattered with islands of differing sizes, most of which have steep, rocky edges and amazing green vegetation. That evening we found a beautiful cove to camp out in. The cove was called Batchewana Bay near Pancake Bay. We found a nice beach to stay on which felt like a place that one could stay for a good length of time. Some of us enjoyed smoked fish at the nearby store, also where we found dinner supplies, like for making chilli. The next day we rode on, and for me personally, it proved to be probably the best ride of the trip so far. Phillipe and I rode ahead, and the wind seemed to be idle all day. We rode along beaches. Some were rocky, some sandy, but all shared the fact that they were breathtaking. We stopped at a beach filled with perfect skipping rocks, a fun pastime of mine. Where the beach curled, it became rocky, with jagged rocks looking like castle walls jutting out into the lake. I walked out onto them, and they made a perfectly crafted staircase out into the water. I couldn’t help but sit there and marvel in the serenity of the waves crashing, the immense detail of the rock around me, and the blue sky shining overhead. Later we proceeded along the most spectacular coastline I have ever seen. We endured steep climbs, but at every one, we looked forward to the magnificent view from the top, and the glimse of more water on the other side. That day we conquered Montreal River Hill, which was apparently the toughest hill before the rockies. Apparently it gave Terry Fox his toughest climb. Phillipe and I put our heads down and climbed and worked as hard as we could. When we got to the top we were ecstatic, high fiving each other and whooping with joy. We learned about an hour later that it was indeed not Montreal River Hill, when we got to the real Montreal River Hill. It was tough, but in the end you always remember the accomplishment, not the sweat you put into the climb. The view was fantastic, and the ride down the other side exhilarating. As a group we rode into Lake Superior Provincial park, where we stayed at Agawa campground. We wanted to avoid paying for camping the entire trip, but that night we had no choice but to fork over the cash. I personally think it was worth it. We all sat together on the sandy beach, and enjoyed one of the most memorable and beautiful sunsets in our memories.
On the way through Lake Superior P.P. Kristi, Garrett and I made a stop to see pictographs which were left by people hundreds of years ago, drawn in a mixture of crushed red stone and animal fat. It was amazing to see that it has lasted so long, although it has apparently been fading ever so slowly from the weather. The landscape around them was quite stunning, large crevasses in the rock, boulder lined walk ways, large natural stone staircases and clear blue water.
Later I caught up with Viera on the rode and we both took a break at Old Woman Bay, another stunning view. In the bay was a cliff with the face of an old woman looking upwards. The stone looked ancient and covered in green. Like an image of an old civilization overgrown by vegetation.
The next morning we were up early, which is a rarity for us because we generally take a while to get ready in the mornings. We rode hard through the park, and once again there was no shortage of beautiful scenery. Phillipe and I rode ahead to get to the town of Wawa (he had work to do, and since he was experiencing bike troubles wanted a partner to ride with). We finally made it there when it was getting dark, and in a binge of unsustainability we bought a motel, a meatlovers pizza, and a case of beer. We were surprised to see Vierra and Justin ride into town a couple hours later. Viera and I were happy and exhausted as we arrived in Wawa, unsure of where to stay the night. We knew that Philipe and Lucas were somewhere about the town. The one motel that we walked into to use the internet, was miraculously the one that our friends were staying in. After a failed attempt to contact them in the room, Viera and I went exploring to find Philipe and Lucas. We were happily greeted by them in the downtown. That night we went to listen to some amazing local music, with a mandolin and base duo. Kristi and Garrett stayed in the park and enjoyed an incredible night camping in the serenity of nature.
We planned to meet Kristi and Garrett at the big goose at the info centre.
The next day Garrett and I went to the local newspaper and everyone else went to a local market, then we rode west. We made it to a little lake, where an extremely hospitable francophone family let us camp in their yard, and even provided firewood.
To get into a more interpersonal aspect of the trip, I will let you know that we try and have group meetings every night, though we do tend to skip them when the mosquitoes are too bad. That night we had an incredible meeting around the fire, where we started to really talk about the purpose of the trip, and why we are all doing this. It seemed like the constitution of our little community was written that night, and it was encouraging to listen to all of us talk about our goals. Of course we don’t always get along on the trip, but of course that is to be expected. We are in fairly good practice about talking about our issues and needs though, and I think that is one of the most important factors in healthy group dynamics.
At the meeting we discussed a decision making model to use to have healthy communication. From the start of the trip a few decisions were unequal or unfair in terms of compromises made. The model is a form of consensus and consultation. Which involves a go around of ideas and concerns and then a vote of thumbs up or down.
The next day we rode our last full day with Phillipe who seemed just like a member of the team by this point. It rained off and on during the day, but we got fairly close to White River that night. The unfortunate cost of our choice of camping spots was it was right next to a train track, and we were awoken repeatedly through the night.
The next morning we rode to White River early in the morning (though my definition of early and yours may be a whole lot different). I have found I love to ride early. The traffic is lighter, the weather usually temperate and the breeze usually seems to be more calm. We arrived in White River and somehow managed to putter around most of the day, getting things ready for Phillipe to take the bus to Winnipeg. It was an interesting town, and the random fact of the day is that it was the home of Winnie the Pooh. We finally said our goodbyes to Phillipe and were sad to see a member of our team off. He rode ahead of us on the greyhound so I am sure he never had to battle the winds that evening, because for us they were awful. Kristi, Garrett and Vierra talked to a man who told them of a beautiful lake to stay at. When Justin and I arrived after them we were happy to set up our camp along the lakeside. We had an unexpected guest for dinner that night: a sly little fox, who would do anything to get our food. We managed to find an old rowboat so we put our food in it and anchored it out in the water, however the fox still managed to get a few pieces of our fruit.
The next morning Kristi was feeling sick, so Garrett and her stayed at the camp while Justin, Vierra and I rode for Marathon. We stayed with sisters Sarah and Katie, who were so good to us, letting us stay and eating there great food. When we got there a pot of Chilli was on, and it seemed like about the greatest thing on the planet. Kristi and Garrett ended up making it there that night as well, the good news being Kristi felt much better.
The next day we had a much needed rest day. We all got lots of work done I think, though still somehow managed to miss updating this blog. Justin made us some great pancakes which was a real treat from the usual oatmeal we had for breakfast (no offence to the oatmeal people out there). Garrett, Kristi and I went to a beach named Pebble Beach in Marathon. It had a beautiful, huge, ocean like surf, which apparently has been surfed on occasion. Garrett and I hiked a mountain and had the most beautiful view of Marathon, the lake, islands and the mountains, though we had to do a lot of bushwaking to climb up and down it. In the end it was totally worth it. Yet another amazing day on this trip. Viera and I enjoyed a concert in the Parking lot of a very talented guitar playing with a unique style of playing. He would play with the neck of the guitar and use the body as a drum and had unusual hand placements.
The next day we all rode out of Marathon at lunch. It was another treat of amazing scenery, the highlight for me being following a winding creek down from the top of a mountain on the trans Canada. We stopped at a waterfall for lunch (Mink Falls) which to use a word I have been tossing out a lot: beautiful. We also made a brief stop in Neys Provincial Park, where some gentleman suggested we go see Aquasabon, also another spectacular site near Terrace Bay. That night we really pushed ourselves and finished the night climbing a mountain and sleeping on the shore of a little lake on top. It completely refreshed us I think, and we woke up the next day energized, and ready to go.
We are also having trouble with the camping stove, probably due to using dirty diesel and sand scratching up a rubber seal.
The advantage of climbing a mountain is always the ride back down, and we started the morning with a great descent. Justin and I pretended to be pilots and it fulfilled a small portion of our daily tom –foolery. We rode through Terrace Bay, and through Schreiber. In Schreiber, Costas food, donated $10 to us for food. We are grateful for such generosity. We got ingredients for fajitas. We camped in a town called Rossport, which was fantastic, but once again we were awoken by something loud. This time a couple of drunk men blasting music from a car stereo at 4:30am. They ended up bothering us a lot that morning, so we were a tad sleepy the next day.
The next day Kristi’s parents were showing up to spend some time with her and Garrett. Justin, Viera and I had the lofty goal to try and make it to Thunder Bay in two days (about 185 kms, which for us is a huge ride). We rode hard that day and enjoyed great, hot weather and the occasional tail wind – which always seems to refresh me. We went through Nipigon that evening, stopping for some groceries and saying goodbye to Garrett and Kristi, and her parents for a few days. Kristi’s parents left us with some great baking and some other good treats, and we are so grateful for their generosity and kindness. It was also nice to have a motherly figure around again fussing over us, it really felt good knowing we are cared for. That night we pushed on about 15kms, and got to a campsite that let us stay for free and fed us some great pie.
My parents sent a better seat with the Mahy’s which made my bike feel like a whole new vehicle. Very comfortable and reassuring that it will take me the rest of the way without discomfort. Viera got a new seat too which she said felt like riding on heaven. Also my mom sent some homebaking which was a good reminder of home.
I had stopped to ask a man outside of his home about camping around the area, really hoping that he would offer his front lawn, instead he suggested a place further up the road. On our way we found a different place that advertised homemade meals, health food and camping. Viera talked our way into free camping without electricity and without showers. We did support them by purchasing 3 slices of pie. I was also able to e-mail couchsurfers for Thunderbay. In the morning I looked at the health food, and it was nice to see items that are uncommon in regular roadside stores like organic cider vinegar or organic spelt pasta.
We arose early the next morning, Viera, Justin and I knowing we had a large ride ahead of us. We kept a fairly steady pace, stopping every once in a while. Near Mirror Lake, Lucas stopped to talk to a Japanese man walking from Vancouver to New York with a shopping cart and hand cart. We was following a dream he had and he was 62 years old with very big legs. I now can think of him when I feel tired or exhausted. At the end of the day it really started pouring on us, but we made it to Thunder Bay, to the Terry Fox memorial Lookout. We were soaked, but inspired: we had been following the Path of Terry Fox, and this was where he finally stopped. It really puts it in perspective for me, and it was quite emotional to look at his sculpture overlooking the bay and hear his humble words. I think it is a good reminder every time I feel like I am struggling: that he endured so much more than I have, and he went through it all positive and with a vision.
It was only Viera and I at the memorial. We kept waiting for Justin, yet he still didn’t show up. We started to get worried so I dropped most of my gear and rode about 10kms back for him. I couldn’t find him and the rain was torrential. I turned around and came back after flagging down a car that said they hadn’t seen any cyclists for hours. I biked back to the memorial and it was starting to get dark. When I got back there was Justin’s straw hat, sitting next to my flagging vest I had left out to show him where we were. It turns out Justin saw a sign saying no cyclists on the road, and being the gentleman of high moral standards that he is, went onto a sideroad that led into Thunder Bay. What a guy! Now that I am dry and warm I have to laugh about it. We ended up finding a great couch surfer for the night, so here I am, sitting on her couch late into the morning finishing this post, which I will put up as soon as there is internet.
We are now staying with a couchsurfer; when she showed up at the door, she looked quite familiar. I had met her at the University of Guelph and once had a conversation at a water awareness event, we also have several mutual friends. What a small world.
I hope I didn’t bore you too much with my stories, and sorry that they are long.
I have started thinking of many cycling related proverbs while on the road, so I will leave you with one to think about:
- Mountains can only conquer or be conquered. The choice is ours.
(Take two!)
ReplyDeleteWay to go psycholists! Glad you are learning, enjoying, and communicating the many decisions you collectively make.
Love how you have crossed paths with so many people and settings. Couchsurfing is great, but I found it sometimes took a lot of computer time and advance notice to find that right host. Keep spreading the good word and freely distribute your "business cards."
Kristi, the answer to your question is in the photo itself. G'raj Mahal Cafe is in the background of the bicycle contraptions and is in the east end of Austin by the river.
Peace out eh,
Ivan
Hello Pedals Gang. Just loving your updates! Keep them coming as you can. We have another cycling crew coming thru Tobermory tomorrow, apparently. They are speaking here about living a waste free life. I wish I didn't have to work, because it sounds very interesting. Have fun, stay healthy and safe. Kathy and David, your Tobermory "Couch". :)
ReplyDelete